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Travellers Tips for Overlanders
_________________________________________

Usefull information and waypoints route Amsterdam-Capetown 4x4

 = Accomodations we used  
     
Tunesia:

if you have a GPS you have to declare it to customs, but do not say you are in transit to e.g. Libya, as they will seal your GPS in a sack with lead plomp. This will be recorded in your passport

   

Libya:

 DO NOT USE SARO/SARI TRAVEL ! Bad Service. We had a lot of problems with them: Visa not ready at arrival, they got us finally in on a entry stamp. Guide provided completly inadequate and left us after 2 days ! Big problems to get out of Libya, however with the help of another agent we managed. SHATI ZUARA TOURS email : info@shati-zuara.de. Tel. (Libya) 00218.91.3158229 ask for guide Saleh Alxazedi (025.222362). Speaks fluent English and knows his job.

 
     
  Egypt:

Route Siwa > Bahariya (v.v) closed. Permit cannot be obtained in Siwa anymore, but only in Cairo. Takes at least 2-3 days.

Ferry Aswan>Wadi Halfa. Goes every Monday. Contact Mr. Salah Mohamed, Nile Navigation Comp. tel: 097303348. Please note that carferry is seperate from passenger ferry (take 1st class cabin ! it is worth the money). It arrives in Wadi Halfa about 20 hrs later !

Sudan:

Sudan visa can be obtained in Cairo in 1-2 days. You need letter of recommendation from your Embassy. Visa can also be obtained in Aswan (heard issued in 3 hrs ?!), but you have to bring letter of recommendation with you.

arriving Wadi Halfa there are 2 shabby "hotels" at beginning of town. Do not use them, but go for the better one (sorry no name) a little further. Clear your carnet and registration tru Mazar (young guy on a bike) and do not use Kamal (older guy who ripes you off). Mazer has an office Mashan Shanti for "communication" and service.

Route Wadi Halfa > Dongola very bad -takes 3-4 days.

usefull waypoints
ABRI N 20.48.268  E 030.20.865
DONGOLA FERRY N 19.10.862  E 030.29.233
ABU DOM RONDABOUT N 17.57.306  E 031.13.693

Camping Khartoum: Blue Nile Sailing Club sucks. Mayby good for in the summer heat camping on the Nile banks, but too expensive (3 usd$ pp and 5 for car). Toilets, showers not working, filthy and camping is on the general parking place. Very good alternative: National Camping (300 dinar pp) 5 km outside Khartoum on the route to Wad Medani (Ethiopia).

 
NATIONAL CAMPING N 15.31.485  E 032.34.175

We did not register again in Khartoum, nor did we  request a travel permit. No probs on the route.

Ethiopia: (Border Gallabad/Metema

Immigration at Metema, but customs :

Carnet cannot be stamped at Metama border, but has to be done at "Headoffice" 36 km further in town called Shehedi

The following Africa accommodation information and text is not ours, but when text is in blue is our contribution. We got it from 2 SA guys and they got it from the owner-writer. Name regretfully unknown.We follow it partly and appears to be well-informed and very very usefull. It is in sequence of a routing from north to south, so you can use it as an initerary.

 
     
  ETHIOPIA  (you! money! Pen ! Birr ! Sweets !) + Faranti !

SHEHEDI - customs . Free Camping. Mr Geday is the customs officer. Ask politely and he will let you use his loo + shower

 
     
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

GONDER - Belegeze Pension - 30 Birr camp/50 Birr room. The absolute cleanest place in Ethiopia !! Very lovely showers + toilets. Secure parking. Gonder is a loverly little town. Usual beggars, nothing untoward. Internet, cafe's,bakeries, supermarket + juice bars. The castle is not that interesting,but do have a sundowner at the Goha Hotel on top of the hill overlooking Gonder. Stunning! We arrived during TimKat celebrations and all hotels fully booked. However we could camp at the Goha Hotel for 100 birr and we liked it.

BAHIR DAR - Gion Hotel - 44 Birr to camp. The best place to camp in town. Right by Lake Tana with dawn/dusk views of pelicans flocking on a nearby rock. Speak to reception about taking a boat out to the ancient monastries.

LALIBELA - Asheten Hotel 30 birr camp, 60 birr room. Useful place to stay. Overland trucks stop here. We took a nice little room. Hot showers, polite staff. Ask for Thomas as he's the person to guide you around the famous rock-hewn churches. 50 birr p.p. + 100 birr entry. Ask about the skeleton in the wall @ St Georges church.

ADDIS ABEBA  (New Flower) - yeah right !

Amba Hotel - 30 birr camp or 50 birr en-suite room. Teddy is the guy to help you - he'll show you around - cheapest internet, best supermarket and take you to the "Mercato". Do not go alone - many thieves & scum really. But do go there as its very African. Good chips and omelettes if you are sick of injera.

We stayed at the RAS AMBA HOTEL 44 US$  room incl breakfast. Nice, clean place, overlooking Addis. Guarded parking.

 
     
  Despite what ANYONE says : DO NOT stay @ the Bel Air Hotel. Nasty, ragg and noisy there. We saw it.  
     
WONDO GENET -Wondo Genet Hot Spring Resort 37.50  birr pp to camp. Lovely place to camp near Bale Mountains N.P. We camped under trees with Colobus & Vervets. (Monkeys). Camping price includes a visit to and a swim in Hot Springs. Got to be done as it's pure heaven!  
     
 

 

 

AWASSA - Awassa Wabe Shebelle 2 - 40 birr pp to camp. Dingy place but at least you can camp in reasonable grounds. Crap food - yuk - reheated stale food. View of Lake Awassa & good bird life. We did not stayed there, but took next place

 KOMBOLCHA and stayed at the Tekle Hotel. 70 Birr double, spotless room and hot shower , guarded parking.

 
     
 

 

 

ARBA MINCH- Roza Hotel 15 birr p. room, but DON'T stay there. Just eat the fabulous nile fish + chips that Rosa knocks up for little money. Instead camp at ?

Bekele Mola Hotel in the long grass at 40 birr p.p.. Good restaurant , with fantastic terrasse overlooking Lakes Abiata & Charro !!

 
     
YABELO/YAVELLO  Green Hotel 15 birr p.room. Just DO NOT STAY THERE. Grotty-toilet-words fail me. Yavello Motel- a new top address. Prices may rise when place is finished. We camped at the Yabello Motel. 20 Birr.  
     
MOYALLE  - Tourist Hotel 15 Birr p.room.Can camp in courtyard or take a room..  
     
  KENYA !!  
     
  Between Moyale and Marsabit we bushcamped ! It's safe, you don't need to join the convoy and its beautifull. Enjoy the road "cos it sucks"  
     
  NAIROBI (CHOICE OF 2)

1) UPPERHILL CAMP - 550 ksh per night. Owned by Francis (lovely guy), quite a small but cosy & convenient place for central Nairobi. Noisier than Rangi's but you get used to it quickly. Lovely ablutions, fireplace-good food in restaurant. Loads of backpackers & overlanders like you.

2) RANGI'S SITE - 250 ksh p.p. - Popular overlander stop &owned by a kiwi-rangi & his wife Annemieke. Have moved site - ask @ Upper Hill Camp

 
     
  LAKE NAIVASHA -Fisherman's Camp - 400 ksh p.p. Beautiful campsite next to Lake Naivasha. Build a huge campfire & wait for the hippos !!  
     
CRATER LAKE GAME SANCTUARY (Next to Lake Naivasha) - 150 ksh pp to camp, 100 ksh to enter + 50 ksh for car. One of the sweetest game reserve camps ever! You are permitted to walk around the tiny reserve. We walked right up to giraffe, zebra, eland + thomsons gazelles. Hot swoers + clean long-drops. You can also walk around the lake in 30 mins & see plenty of flamingoes. Due to security reasons campsite is temperarely closed. However you can camp at the owners compound (electrically fenced). Terrific spot and very very good restaurant  
     
THOMPSON FALLS -  Thompson Falls Lodge 300 ksh pp camping on grass !! Nice place to stay- clean loos with toilet paper and hot showers ! Little walk to Hippo pool.

 

 
  RUMURUTI  (North of Thompsons Falls) - Babong Camp - 250 ksh pp. In our opinion, one of the best campsites in Kenya & little known! Zoe @  Kemin told us about this place. Set high on a plateau on a farm overlooking Mt. Kenya & the Aberdare Mountains. Owned by 3rd generation Kenyans- The  Perretts. Very rustic, very friendly. If you want to get away from everyone-stay there !! Not in any guidebooks-thank God !  
     
LAKE BARINGO - Roberts Camp 300 ksh pp + 500 ksh to enter reserve. A lot of British ex-pats !! Very nice owners. Millions of fabulous birds & near to lake. Crocs,hippos rtc. Good restaurant/bar. Now 350 ksh pp. + tax ! Good showers and clean toilets  
     
  MOMBASSA - Twiga Lodge, Tiwi Beach  
     
  NAKURU - Kernbu campsite - 500 ksh pp. More British ex-pats own this quint farm camp with a cosy wooden bar/logfire, open terrace. Camp on grass. Clean loos + hot showers  
     
ELDORET - Naiben River Camp 250 ksh pp  
  Hughe campsite right next tp the Naiben River. Strange looking bar + FAB CURRIES - owned by Raj, who also owns a knitwear factory in town.Buy your Masai blankets here ! very very cheap. Watch out for driver ants ! Building a new camp, therefor no more maintenance on old camp, which shows.  
     
KITALE - Sinkwa Safaris - 375 ksh  
  Little piece of middle-England in NW Kenya ! Really good campsite - lovely self-catering kitchen & hot showers ! Owners are Richard & Julia Barnley. Good for 1 night before Uganda. Be aware that the dinner at "home" is around 850 ksh pp, but with everything included: soup-main-dessert (we had triffle) and coffe/thea  
     
  UGANDA  
     
JINJA - Nile River Explorers   $2,00 pp  
  Popular campsite right by the Nile rapids & Buyagali Falls. Bar/restaurant & clean ablutions. You can swim in the Nile near the rapids. Watch out for pesty Tsetse flies and hungry velvets.  
  Beautifull terrasse overlooking the Nile rapids  
     
  KAMPALA (1) Red Chili's Hideaway - 5000 ush pp  
  Okay camp, good ablutions, but funny to let you camp on the grass  
     
KAMPALA (2) Backpackers Hostel 5000 ush pp  
  Much better place to camp, however stinky hole in the ground toilets,  hot showers. You can camp anywhere in the large campground & were is free internet. Bonus ! The campsite is not so large and in the middle is a big 40 ft container !!?? Bar/restaurant OK  
     
  LAKE ALBERT  - Nile Safari Camp 10.000 ush pp  
  Very posh lodge which lets you camp with stunning views of the lake. (+ hippos). Hot shower + toilet. Ask for Geordie- very nice and helpful English guy - ex overland truckdriver manages the place. We wanted to stay there, but campsite is far away from main buildings (pool), no shade on camping and crappy toilets/showers - so we went to the Red Chili Rest Camp (see below)  
     
MURCHISON FALLS N.P. Red Chili Rest Camp 5000 ush pp.   + $ 30 (now 35pp) entry for 2 days + $ 40 one-off fee car  
  Beautiful place by Lake Albert and well worth it. The falls are stunning. Rest camp is fairly large + open. Warthog + bushbuck+ Marabu wander through requently. 3 hr boat trip to Falls is 20000 ush pp - very good game spotting - hippos,crocs, all kinds of birds. Self game drive to Falls free. (Do It !) Take the ferry and do a game drive on the other side of the river, where all the animals are !  
     
BODUNGO FOREST  Busingero Tourist Site  15000 ush pp for camping including CHIMPS TREKKING !!! (Morning walk 3 hrs). Campsite has 2 bandas (US9 pp), but is very basic. Good (long drop) toilets and shower if there is water in the tank. They store cold drinks, but thats it. Have to bring your own food, but it is worth to stay there and do the Chimps trekking  (very cheap if you compare with Kibale forest)  
     
KIBALE FOREST - Crater Valley Kibale (CVK) US$ 3 pp Small camp, 10 km from National Park HQ. Good base for trekking chimps. Showers + toilets. Chimp trekking US$ 40 pp + 20 guide (3 hrs) Get to see/here lots of chimps + birds. We went for a swim in the crater (nice cool) as it is free a bilharzia, but they 'forgot' to mention he crater has leeches .........  
     
KIBALE FOREST - Safari Hotel 5000 ush pp incl breakfast ! camping. Campsite is very small and you miss it almost as it lookes like anybodies private home, but they are building a new beautifull campsite at the back with bandas, restaurant and bar and will be ready end 2005 . The owner Charles is famous for his cooking, but can stock very little and is overwhelming friendly. Black tea the whole day as much you can stomach. This will be the place to stay when it is finished. We did the swamp sanctuary. (10.000 pp) and you must be lucky to see a lot of monkeys and birdlife.  
     
LAKE BUNYONYI - Overlanders 5000 pp  
  Lovely campsite situated right by the lake. Good ablutions, restaurant + bar. Minicurio shop. Make sure you make dug-out canou trip into the lake. Good laugh- you will see why! Indeed well worth staying here !! Recommendation !  
     
  RWANDA !!  
     
  RUHENGERI - Hotel Urumuri  7000 rfr room  
 

 

 

 

Good one nighter as a base to see mountain Gorillas in Parc des Volcans. Cheap food + drink. Walking distance to bank + shops.Book gorillas one day before at ORTPN office. US$ 250 NOW 375.00 !! pp -WELL WORTH EVERY DOLLAR! See them here and not in UGANDA.

 We stayed at the Muhabara Hotel. 10000 rfr. Very convenient, room nr 8 large room shower/bath-toilet, good kitchen, nice terasse

 
     
  BUTARE Ibis Hotel - room 8- 12000 rfr (incl breakfast)  
  Nice hotel situated in town centre. Lovely university town with 'best museum' in E. Africa. (It is quite good!). Room no 8 is an enormous room with en-suite bath tub, loo + conservatory !! Very good value. Secure parking right next to room ! Recommended.  
     
CYANGUGU - (Lake Kiru on border of Congo) - Peace Guest House (as you drive in on hill) 7500 rfr - double room  with sunken bathtub + toilet. We stayed in room nr 5 (lovely) fabulous view + sunset of Lake Kiru. Can see the town of Bukaru (Congo) from here ! All rooms in block of nr 5 are the same. As guesthouse is owned by Church - no alcohol available  
  but OK to bring/drink your own.  
     
KIGALI - Okapi Hotel - room 504) Budget room+best !) 12000 rfr - room incl b'fast. Top-end of town near big roundabout. En-suite rooms at the back. Good food in restaurant & good internet centre in hotel ! Walking distance to all amenities in town. Safe parking  
     
  TANZANIA  
     
  WARNING !! Route border Rwanda - Rusumu > Geita reported car jackings !! So do not stop and be alert ! (We received this information on arrival in Geita.....)  
     
  BIHARAMULO - Boma Guest House - 6000 tsh to camp. Old german Fort on top of the hill from town. Dirt road to get to Biharamulo. Clean toilet + shower. Nice staff. When we arrived the guesthouse was closed ! So we stayed at :  
     
GEITA  Erin Hotel 20.000 tsh room incl. brkfst. Very nice hotel on large grounds. Luxury rooms incl hot shower & toilet. Safe parking. Difficult to find as not correctly sign posted so here are the GPS coordinates:  
 
ERIN HOTEL S 02.51.954  E 032.13.293
 
     
  KISESSA - Bujora SukumaMuseum - 2000 tsh pp to camp. Weird + wonderfull place to camp if coming from Rwanda. Traditional Sukuma tribe open-air museum. If you are lucky, they put on a traditional dance like we were. Watch the python !  
     
KIJRESHI TENTED CAMP.  US$ 10 pp to camp. Signed posted on route Mwanza-Musoma. Beautifull place to camp . Entrance Serengeti from there. Ask to camp on grounds of overlandtrucks. Very friendly staff they gave us key of cabin to shower/toilet !! Good restaurant/bar and mostly no visitors !! Sat tv  
     
  Please note that Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater are adjoining, which means if you leave through Naabi Hill gate, you immidiately enter the Crater NP and have to pay !!  
     
  *SERENGETI INFO:  
  US$ 30 pp + US$ 30 car + US$ 20 pp - camp so 2 persons US$ 130.00 and valid for only 24 hrs exactly on time of arrival ! an extra day = 130 extra  
  Seronera (centre of N.P.) 4/5 public campsites in the bush, pit toilets. Our camp had no water so no shower! (Nyani Camp). Our camp DikDik had water,but no working showers.  
     
  *NGORONGORO CRATER INFO:  
  US$ 30 pp entry + US$ 30 car + US$ 20 pp to camp and US$ 7.50 pp to go into crater - well worth it - we saw ele + 11 lions  
  Now 12.50 pp for car into crater and you must take guide with you  at extra costs! Tell them you cannot fit a guide in your car and they will stamp your permit, so you can go without a guide. Do not camp in Crater but go to Karatu !  
     
KARATU - Ngorongoro Safari Resort 5000 tsh pp  
  Good little campsite. Nice bar/restaurant, good ablutions. Useful stop before/after Crater (& cheaper !). Well recommended  
     
ARUSHA - Masai Camp 3000 tsh pp  
  Another hugely popular campsite, but quite big. Good restaurant/bar. Near to town centre. Cheap + fast internet centre in camp. Good ablutions. Organise climbs Mt Meru + Kili + Arusha N.P. Well recommended  
     
MKUMBARA - South of Moshi approx 10 km before Lushoto- Tembo Campsite US$ 4 pp  
  Owned by 'Fleet'- very nice Dutch guy. Well sighposted off the main road. (Big yellow Tembo chipboards sign), swimming pool, tennis court. Camp on grass. Right by Usumbara Mountains. Looks like an old army camp with barracks, which will be converted into dorms=but good for 1 stop before Dar Es Salaam  
     
KIGOMBE - Peponi Resort US$ 4 pp  
  Very large campsite underneath palm trees + next to nice beach. Good ablutions + restuarant/bar. The half-day snorkelling safari to the 'sand island' is stunning ! (Very good cooking in restaurant)  
     
  BAGAMOYO - Travellers Lodge - 3000 tsh pp  
  Good for one nighter. Proper beach lodge, showers,loo, etc. Make sure you collect any fallen coconuts! Dont cook, you HAVE to eat in the restaurant - try garlic prawns/steak - whopper portions !!  
     
DAR-ES SALAAM - Kippepeo Beach Camp 3000 tsh pp  
 

LEAVE CAR HERE WHEN TO ZANZIBAR

 
  8 km south of Dar - need to take Kigamboni ferry to get across the harbour. Good beach camp on fabulous white sand beach. Nice bar/restaurant. Hot showers, but they have no doors (curtains) ?! When we were there no hot showers - but showers lukewarm due sun heating.  
  24- hour security  
     
  MOROGORO - Masuka Village Hotel 7200 tsh room/3600 to camp. Small hotel 1 km from town in leafy part. Fabulous food in the adjoining Chinese restaurant. But camp - don't take a room like we did - mosi heaven !  
     
IRINGA - Kisolanza Farm 3000 tsh pp  
  If you do come up this way, you must stay here! Real bush atmos, hot showers, clean wooden long-drops, very quiet. Well of main road. Sell locally grown produce. Must have the Amarula Hot Chocolate in the tiny rondavel bar !!  
 
Kisolanza Farm S 08.68.460  E 035.24.459
 
     
     
  MALAWI  
     
  KORONGA - Mufwa Riverside Centre - 200 mk pp  
  Nothing special, but a useful one nighter after coming from Tanzania. Cold showers, cheap sodas. Make sure the gateman fully opens the gate. It was raining cats & dogs so we decided to stay at:  
     
KORONGA -  Club Marina - Chalet (room) 20 usd incl breakfast. Warm showers. Nothing spectacular.  
     
  CHITIMBA BEACH - Mdokera's Beach Camp 150 mk pp  
  Locally run beach camp on the sand right by Lake. Camp near the 'bed in a tree'! Jungle showers + pit toilets. DONOT stay at Chitimba Lodge - backpackers were theatenend + robbed there!! Safer here !  
     
CHELINDA (Nyika National Park)  Chelinda Camp 500 mk pp to camp. Park entrance fee 1380 mk 2 pers incl. car. Hot showers - clean toilets. Bring own food & drinks. Beautifull park with 'Scottish' landscape. Fabulous sceneries.  
     
NKHATA BAY - Njaya Camp 150 mk pp  
  Insist on camping past the barrier near the chalets (wooden table+bench). NOT in the patch of grass near the restaurant over-run by turkeys !! Cold showers. Good food in restaurant. Try the 'Big Blue' campsite instead. They do good burgers+ toasties!! Scottish guy runs here.  
     
LAKE MALAWI - Kande Beach 300 mk pp  
  Hugely popular campsite near Lake. Trucks stop here. Camp on sand. Good ablutions + bar/restaurant. Stock up on groceries etc as no shops etc. nearby. We stayed 10 days because we did our PADI Scuba Diving course here. US$ 180 pp - 5 days (Aquanuts Dive School)  
     
  MONKEY BAY - (Cape Maclear) - Fat Monkeys - US$1 pp  
  Mmm. Not the best campsite but very cheap!! Bar + restaurant. Dodgy showers + loos. Very open on the beach (locals peer/call through the bamboo fence) we'd rather you tried elsewhere !! so we did and stayed at  
     
MONKEY BAY  (Cape Maclear) Gayia Lodge US1,5 pp to camp. Very very nice place to camp. Little , but direct at the beach . Cold showers + clean loos. No restaurant, but you can eat perfect at Fat Monkeys (pizza's!!) or  
     
     
SENGA BAY - Cool Runnings US$ 2 pp  
  Lovely place owned by Sam (& her 2 staffies). Right near beach/Lake. Good bar/restaurant. Nice ablutions - camp on grass. TV/lounge, laundry. we stayed 10 days !! Say 'hi' to Sam, cheers !  
     
LILONGWE - Kiboko Camp US$ 3 pp  
  Small camp near town centre. Warm showers.Internet (expensive!) more geared to backpackers. Better to camp at:  
  Lilongwe Golf Club US$ 3 pp (not far from Kiboko)  
  Hughe campsite in grounds of golf club. Fab. ablutions, good security, very quiet at night. We checked also the Golf Club and we think you can better stay at the Kiboko Camp. It is geared for overlanders !!  
     
LIWONDE NATIONAL PARK  Park entrance USD5 pp and 2 for car. Beautiful park along Shire River. We would like to go to the Mvuu Lodge for campig , but after 10 K's we were stopped by mud and had to return and stayed at the fairly new lodge Chingumi Hills Lodge and Safari Camps.. You must eat there !! Lovely beef roast !  
     
     
  ZAMBIA  
     
  crappy road alert !!! from CHIPATA to South Luangwa  
     
CHIPATA - Mama Rula's - US$ 5 pp  
  Large camping ground. Expensive bar & restaurant. Hot showers. Quiet place when no trucks are there ! Good stop before going to  South Luangwa NP of going to Malawi  
  Right on the Maaze/Siansowa Crocodile Farm (follow all signs to this farm from main road). Good view of Lake & lovely sunsets. Garin & Paola are lolvely + hospitable. Good ablutions,nice pool, sunset bar. Garin will organise Croc Farm visit, fishing trips, boat trips + camping nearby islands.Good place to stay (Get Garin to cook you Croc Stir-Fry/Croc Curry - YUM!)  
     
  SOUTH LUANGWA N.P. - Flatdogs Camp US$ 5 pp  
  Lush camp right by Luangwa River. Very popular. Good ablutions, bar + restaurant,curio shop, internet, etc. Most of the staff are British. Try & park right by the river under the hughe Sausage tree ! Many,many hippos, some crocs, good birdspotting. We did a self-drive (game). US$ 20 entry + US$ 15 car. Organised night-drives to see Leopards ia US$ 25 pp. We stayed at :  
     
SOUTH LUANGWA N.P. Wildlife Camp US$5 pp. Perfect camp at Luangwa River. If you dont want noise from overlanders - GO THERE ! Good ablutions+restaurant. Hippos in the camp during night !  
  Game drive in open cars !! Only usd 25 pp for 5 hrs  
     
  crappy road alert !!! from  South Luangwa to Chipata  
     
     
  PETAUKE - Zullu's Kraal - US$ 4 pp  
  Overland trucks stop with small bar- no restaurant. Hot showers, right near main road. A useful stop between Lusaka & Chipata (very long stretch of pot-holed road !)  
  Friendly staff. Security guards.  
     
  LUSAKA - Pioneer Camp US$ 5 pp  
  You'll love this place. We treated it like home. Owners are Chris (Zambian) + Bev (British) - lovely couple. Good ablutions + campsite. Fab. bar- restaurant. DSTV - very cosy atmos. Few backbackers and not too many trucks.  
     
  LIVINGSTONE - Maramba River Lodge US$ 5 pp. Forget any backpackers places, stay here ! Lovely campsite situated by Maramba River & 3 km from Vic Falls. Good ablutions, bar+restaurant, swimming pool, braai, etc. Good value for money. Hippos+Crocs  
     
  *TIP* Leave car here + get taxi to Falls. (15000 kwacha one way). Falls entry=US$10 pp  
     
  MOZAMBIQUE  
  (YOU MAY NOT NEED ALL THIS !) North > South  
     
TĚTE - Jesus É Bom - US$ 2 pp + 3 car  
  Only campsite in town (signposted from huge bridge)  
  Christian-run camp (local) right by Zambezi, cold showers, friendly owners. Apparantly overland trucks stop here.  
     
  CHIMOIO - Palhota de Chicoteco - free  
  Not really a campsite anymore-just a restaurant, but they refused to take money for camping there.Not far from town (see  L.P. or Bradt). Restaurant serves tasty Portuguese food ! We stayed at:  
     
CHIMOIO - Chicamba Dam -  Casa Msika. 85.000 Mt pp. ca 40 kms from Chimoio direction Zimbabwe. Restaurant + hot showers - terasse overlooking the artificial lake with dead trees in it. Crocs ! Very serene and quiet . Poolside not cleaned - dirty !  
     
  BEIRA -Biques Campsite 75.000 Mt p.p.  
  Only place to camp in Beira & right on the beach near palm tree, etc. Chris (lady who owns it) is British & a good source of info. Ablutions are stunning. Very hot showers. Restaurant and bar is superb. Good food + DSTV  
     
  VILANKULOS - Baobab Beach - 100.000 Mt p.p.  
 

 

Very backpackers orientated, but stunning view of beach from the bar. Camping site - freezing cold showers- be warned ! You could try 'Vilankulos Camping' along the beach - more geared to overlanders.We stayed at:  
     
VILANKULOS -  Blue Water Lodge -200.000 Mt pp.to camp. Direct located at beach. Hot showers and good restuarant. Run by South Africans  
     
MORRUNGULU - Sylvia Shoal - 175.000 Mt p.p.  
  Lovely, huge camp ground next to beach owned by Les & Marsha (Zimbabwean). Nice restaurant - gorgeous food !!! Dive school, hot showers, etc. Enormous secluded beach !!!!  
     
BARRA BEACH (INHAMBANE) - Ponta do Barra  
  (Lighthouse camp) 50 rand p.p.  
  Next to lighthouse gorgeous view. Amazing beach website www.barralighthouse.com  
     
  BILENE - Palmeiras - 75.000 Mt pp  
  Very nice place to camp. Fab. bar & restaurant with great food (try the seafood platter for 2 !). Hot showers etc.  
     
  MAPUTO - Fatima's place 120.000 Mt p.p.  
  Only place to camp in Maputo. safe parking,self-catering kitchen, tv/lounge area - also has rooms.Nice atmos, but geared towards backpackers. Fatima is very helpfull  
     
  BOTSWANA  
     
  MAGADIKGADI PANS - Kubu Island 120 BWP entry, car & 2 x camping  
  Right in the salt pan (sua) by Kubu (ancient monument of huge rocks & ghostly baobabs). Sunrise is gorgeous (pink glow above the salt - magic !)  
     
  MAUN - Audi Camp         25   - BWP p.p.  
  Everyone comes here but it has nice atmos, good bar & restaurant, hot showers all day. They arrange 1/2/3 day Mokoro trips from 390 BWP p.p. well recommended !  
     
  SHAKAWE - Drotsky's Cabins  - 55 BWP p.p.  
  Situated right in the woods & by the Kavango River. Campfires & hot showers & clean loos. Nice for one nighter  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
 




Copyright 2004-2005 John Ahlers & Anne van Deudekom